Le quisiera extender las gracias al compañero David González Vázquez por mandarme la introducción a su trabajo sobre el Caribe que esta llevando a cabo como parte de nuestro curso de Literatura Caribeña con Margaret Shrimpton en la Universidad Autónoma de Yucatán. Me interesa mucho la idea que David nos plantea de re-imaginarse o de ‘autorreconocimiento’ de si mismo dentro de SU Caribe a través de los diferentes aspectos culturales y sociales que pueden formar parte de una identidad Caribeña o Antillana. La idea del viaje o de movimiento que David ha tenido como experiencia al venir a Mérida y su posterior reconocimiento como alguien Caribeño es sin duda un gran ejemplo y aporte para nuestro blog.
De nuevo, gracias a David y espero que podamos tener algo de dialogo a partir de este nuevo aporte.
Jesús
En lo que sigue encontraran la introducción de David:
David González Vázquez
Ser consciente es ocuparse de sí mismo…
William Robert Daros
El Caribe. Lo uno y diverso. ¿Quién formulo dicha expresión? No lo sé, quizá Yolanda Wood o Nancy Morejón, aún en esto, este territorio geo-intelectual es múltiple, y a la vez tiene algo en común. Tan es así, que en mi experiencia personal de vida, el Caribe se ha manifestado como un fenómeno existencial, que sin ser yo consciente de él, sucedió –y los sigue haciendo– tanto en mi infancia como en mi juventud, pues nací en Cancún, la Meca del turismo mexicano, y tiempo después, el bendito viaje me alcanzó, me devoró y me digirió/dirigió hasta otro punto del Caribe continental mexicano: Mérida, Yucatán (en donde por cierto, he venido a ser consciente de mi parcial identidad caribeña).
Ahora bien, quizá se pueda argumentar que Quintana Roo y específicamente Cancún, no pasaron por los mismos procesos históricos que, por ejemplo, el Caribe Insular. Sin embargo, creo firmemente que mi tierra natal también forma parte de la dinámica caribeña, aunque claro, a su forma, por ello la importancia de la expresión “lo uno y diverso”. Daré dos breves ejemplos de situaciones similares a las sostenidas en otros enclaves caribeños. La primera de ellas es la composición exógena de la población cancunense, es decir, la mayoría de su población (me atrevo a decir que más de tres cuartas partes de ésta) viene de otro lugar, ya sea de otras partes de la República Mexicana (Yucatán, D.F., Hidalgo, Chiapas…) como de otros países, entre ellos: Argentina, Colombia, Brasil, Cuba, Francia, Italia, Estados Unidos y una larga lista… La cosa no termina ahí, pues los emigrantes se han establecido permanentemente, así como entremezclado unos con otros, y han formado familia, y aquí está el punto que quiero resaltar: las nuevas generaciones (dentro de las que me incluyo) ya no se identifican como defeños, yucatecos, argentinos, italianos, franceses y demás; pero tampoco se identifican como mayas (etnia originaria de la región), sino que han entrado en crisis identitarias al no crear vínculos de pertenencia con los lugares originarios de su familia y, al mismo tiempo, no sentir identificación con el pasado histórico de Quintana Roo. El proceso, pienso, es similar al experimentado por la diáspora de afrocaribeños, pues ya no se identifican exactamente con África, ni tampoco con los colonos blancos, sino que proceden a configurar nuevas identidad. La segunda razón por la que afirmo que Cancún entra dentro de procesos similares a los observados en el Caribe Insular, radica en la recurrencia del viaje, a la incorporación de éste a la vida cotidiana de la población quintanarroense en general, y más específicamente al área conocida como “Rivera Maya”. Sucede que grandes núcleos de población viajan diariamente en busca del pan de cada día, viajan de un polo a otro, a veces de Cancún a Tulúm, de Playa del Carmen a Cozumel, de Puerto Morelos a Cancún, de Isla Mujeres a Cancún, de Isla Blanca a Playa del Carmen, y así, en un infinitud de cruzamientos y entrecruzamientos. Vemos la presencia de islas como Isla Mujeres y Cozumel, aunque creo que puntos como Cancún, Playa del Carmen, Puerto Morelos también se pueden considerar islas rodeadas de selva y no de mar, entre cuyos márgenes hay una población flotante que ondula diariamente de un punto a otro como forma de supervivencia, como forma de bregar. Además, existen otras formas de viaje, como el que yo experimento, en donde el sujeto se ve forzado a migrar, por la insuficiente oferta educativa de la región, a otras partes de la República o a otros países .
¿Por qué comentó todo esto? Por dos razones: 1) que gracias al curso de Literatura Caribeña, impartido por la Dra. Margaret Shrimpton, así como por la espléndida caterva de escritores caribeños (Aimé Césaire, Gontran Damas, Kamau Brathwaite, George Lamming, Luis Rafael Sánchez…) he venido a ser consciente de mi pertenencia al Caribe, lo cual agradezco infinitamente; y 2) estrechamente vinculado con el punto uno, es que una de las funciones primordiales de la escritura caribeña es la concientización de pertenencia a una dinámica tanto social como histórica de un espacio denominado Caribe, cuyo consecuente desarrollo ha sido la configuración de discursos identitarios. Luego entonces, ya no es el Caribe, sino mi Caribe, donde la literatura ha desempeñado un papel principal como llave o puente para el autorreconocimiento, filosóficamente hablando, un encuentro del ser-ahí con sí mismo.
jueves, 31 de marzo de 2011
jueves, 17 de marzo de 2011
Vandalismo o lucha?
A raíz del comentario que le hice a Josue sobre su pieza de la jarana y el graffiti comercializado quería poner la foto que me llamo mucho la atención y que menciono en el comentario:
Esta foto demuestra la aparente desesperación que siente el artista y quizás la gente de la comunidad marginada de “la bondoj” que básicamente vive al lado del pantano. Este tipo de expresión ha sido fichada como “vandalismo” por los diferentes sectores socio-económicos mas privilegiados y “educados” que tienen el lujo de simplemente afiliar al arte como tal y como resultado al barrio como “peligroso.” Lo detallo un poco más en mi comentario en la pagina de Josue si les interesa.
Esta foto demuestra la aparente desesperación que siente el artista y quizás la gente de la comunidad marginada de “la bondoj” que básicamente vive al lado del pantano. Este tipo de expresión ha sido fichada como “vandalismo” por los diferentes sectores socio-económicos mas privilegiados y “educados” que tienen el lujo de simplemente afiliar al arte como tal y como resultado al barrio como “peligroso.” Lo detallo un poco más en mi comentario en la pagina de Josue si les interesa.
viernes, 11 de marzo de 2011
The Pier That Kept on Growing:
Progreso was founded as a port city in 1856 during the hay days of the Henequen industry that made the Yucatan peninsula so wealthy. Henequen entrepreneurs built mansions on the east part of town and shipped out their cargos from the then 2 kilometer (1.25 mile) long wharf, which at that time was the longest stone wharf in the world. Fishing was of course another main facet of the economy then, and still is today. However, as technology advanced and cargo ships increased in size, the 2 km wharf, which only sat in about 6 meters (19.7 feet) of water, wasn’t cutting it. In 1968 a longer pier was built in Yucapetén harbor, about 6 km (3.7 miles) west of town, and though Progreso continued to receive boats, its activity severely declined. In response, Progreso extended its pier, which now stretches 4.3 km (2.6 miles) into the Gulf of Mexico. It still receives cargo ships that pick up exports such as honey, cement, fish, salt, and steel, but the majority of action the pier sees today comes from cruise ships. Tourists used to be able to walk the pier into Progreso, but for security (or perhaps financial?) reasons, it is now prohibited, and they must be bussed or taxied into town. Cruise ships come frequently (about 2 to 3 times a week) and tourism has thus become a very lucrative economic market for the people there.
Tourism: Both Sides of the Coin
Visit a major online travel agency, such as Priceline or Expedia, and you can find more than a couple Carnival cruises that list Progreso (Merida, in parentheses next to it) as a port of call. Most of the cruises offered are typically 4 or 5 night cruises, leaving from New Orleans or Florida, and traveling down to Progreso and Cozumel. Rates for a room on these ships can range anywhere from around $270 USD for an interior room to $700 for a suite.
However, Google search “Progreso Mexico,” and about half way in, at M-E-X, Google’s instant search (which brings up the most popular searches that begin in that manner) informs you that the most popular Google search is “Progreso Mexico excursions.” Turns out, although those cruise ships disgorge thousands of passengers each, the majority have already booked, or intend to book, excursion packages. The most popular excursions go to Uxmal and Merida, the Puuc Route, or Chitchen Itza. Progreso has been upping its game and doing a lot of work to its waterfront in order to entice the tourists to stick around. However, Progreso’s probably biggest tourism setback can’t be helped or fixed: it’s just too windy most days for the likes of the tourists. The other drawback is the nature of the cruises themselves; with a final port of call in Cozumel, the tourists can anticipate a beach day on the clear blue, white sand beaches of the Caribbean Sea, making it an easier decision to skip out on the coarse and windy beach town of Progreso and head inland for the ruins. The “Port Reviews” on these travel websites are quite telling; “There were tour guides in the square, and we purchased a tour to the Dzibilchaltun Mayan ruins at almost half the cost of the same tour from Carnival. We boarded a modern air-conditioned bus and headed out to the ruins,” wrote a reviewer. “Later, my wife talked to some folks who had left the market square and walked around Progresso. They said that they felt uncomfortable in the city.” 1,671 readers found this review helpful. Bob McGorkic commented, “Not much here. This is a place to get transportation to another place. You can choose between several Mayan ruins sites…Progresso is not a very good place. While we never really felt threatened or unsafe, we were offered cigars, cocaine, and hashish.” 199 readers found this review helpful. Interestingly enough, the following online review was left by a tourist who was actually in Progreso on the same day I was doing my research; “
Progreso is a dirty tourist trap. As I said in the other thread, I don't like having to avoid walking into a vendor's pee stream while walking down the street! And, I find it odd that you find the stores to be overpriced and not the vendors. We bought 1 item in Progreso. That's it. Why? Every vendor priced their items so outrageously high that I refused to bargain with them. $55 for a ceramic knick-knack? I don't think so. But, to add insult to injury -- as we walked away, he offered $5. (And, yes... I asked if he meant $55 in pesos or USD.) It seems as if the vendors in Progreso assume that Americans could not possibly understand what they are saying... I heard insults flying right in front of us. No hiding it... They insulted us and the people around us.” Of course, there were a few reviews that were kinder to Progreso; “We had a wonderful time in Progreso, despite others’ assertion that there is ‘absolutely nothing to do there.’ [We went to a restaurant and] there was a 3-man band playing all sorts of songs, from The Doors, to Elvis and Mariah Carey. We always think the more, the merrier, so my husband bought some beers for some other people that had dropped in. Eventually, we were joined by Lisa
and Marc, as well as others drawn in by the music. I don't think that Progreso had seen cruise ship passengers like us before- We were dancing and having the time of our lives. We were kept in constant supply of chips and salsa at no charge. I told the waiters that I would recommend their place on the internet, and I hope that by writing this review that they will receive additional business,” wrote Charlotte Calicchio. What I ascertained from these reviews is that, the majority of tourists did not and did not want to stick around. Charlotte e
njoyed herself, but her review is very telling, she a had a good time listening to covers of American pop and rock, and exclaimed how excellent the service was and that by writing the review, she hoped to improve their business. However, from her review, it was clear that they were spending a lot of money, buying beers for other customers and whatnot, and in exchange were given chips and salsa at no charge (Which she seemed to think was a pretty good steal. Yet, had she gone to Eladios, she would have gotten chips, salsa, enchiladas, burritos, frijoles, and seafood too, as tapas are standard in many places in this area). What charmed her were the familiar songs, attentive service, and feeling like she was getting “the special treatment.” It wasn’t the culture or food of Progreso she liked, as she wasn’t exposed to it- she stayed in
one bar listening to American music and eating chips and salsa all day. And Of course the staff was attentive; her husband was buying rounds for the place and a good review means the prospect of similar customers in the future.
This brings me to my next topic, which is thecomplex relationship and tension between the town folk and the tourists. When a cruise ship is at dock, Progreso, a normally sleepy and relaxed fishing town, is hardly recognizable. The first time I went to do research, there was no cruise ship in sight, and the locals lined the dock and pier fishing. My Spanish was still a bit rusty, and, being the beach, I had worn a bathing suit under my clothes. Sunglasses and camera in tow, I started walking along the beach, and even though the cruise ships were gone, I must have looked every bit the tourist. I knew I wanted to look at the economy for this project, and approached a father teaching his son how to fish. Thinking what a great shot that would be for the blog, I asked if I could take a picture, not wanting to be rude. They stopped laughing, and the father reached for the camera, to take a photo of/for me. I tried to explain that I wanted a photo of them, not of me, and things turned immediately awkward, yet he nodded and agreed to it. Instead of the photo of the smiling father teaching his son how to fish, I got a photo of two people, looking very unsettled but “smiling” for the camera. It was the first and last photo I took of the locals- the questions in their faces are tangible, as if the picture itself is screaming, “What the hell does this Gringa want?” I felt ashamed, dirty, for having taken it and intruding into these people’s lives, and couldn’t stand the way they had looked at me- the questionin their eyes.
Afterwards, I was on a fishing dock (not the miles long one for cruise ships) and taking photos of the birds and the catches that day. Nearby, a group of young boys started mocking me in Spanish. I got the gist of what they were saying- they thought I was a dumb tourist walking around taking photos of the “exotic” pelicans and crabs. At first I started to feel upset- Why did everyone seem to think I was just some dumb tourist when I was trying to learn about their town? But later, upon reflection, I realized that those boys (apart from simply being young boys), were in a way resisting the changes taking place in their town in the only way young boys can: by making fun of me, the intruder. I felt like I wasn’t welcome, until of course, I went to open my wallet and get lunch or souvenir. I left with much to think about.
The next time I went back, the town was completely and utterly different. Parked at the end of the long wharf was the Carnival Elation, an 855 foot, 70,000 ton ship with a capacity of 2,052 passengers. The main boardwalk was jam packed with vendors selling all
sorts of knick-knacks, beachwear, hair braiding, and services- there were even tables set up where a lady was giving massages on the beach. Stands boasted signs in English “Everything a Dollar!” and vendors switched languages (“You like?”) as soon as I approached. The town gave the air of a party, and everyone, tourist and locals alike, seemed to be laughing, smiling, and loving life. Yet, at the same time, I noticed that behind the smiling faces, there was a lot of eye rolling going on from both ends- The tourists annoyed at the vendors’ hawking, the vendors annoyed that the tourists weren’t buying. As I walked along the beach, two women approached me and asked me in Spanish if I spoke French or English, and where I was from. I told them I could speak either- it turned out they were from Quebec and Iowa and asked if I would take a photo for them. They told me they wouldn’t ask any Mexicans to do it- they said they had been robbed earlier in the morning and now don’t trust the locals (although how they know it was a local who robbed them I don’t know). “Did they steal anything of value?” I asked. “Yeah, our wallets along with everything in them,”she replied. It became clear that underneath the buzzing hubbub and activity, behind the image of the happy tourists (happy to be on vacation and experiencing another culture, or at least a change of scenery) and the happy local (happy to make a buck and show off his town), was a deep tension and uneasiness between the two. You can see this in some of the aforementioned cruise reviews as well.
At a later date
I went back with a Yucatecan friend from Merida, and as we sat on the beach drinking beers and watching the tourists he asked, “¿Por qué los estadounidenses piensan que todo el mundo habla Inglés?” (Note he didn’t say Americans- he always gets mad when I refer to the people from the States as Americans as America is not limited to the US [he’s got me there]). He went on to say how annoying he found it that the tourists from the States seemed surprise when they got off the boat that not everyone spoke English. I didn’t really have an answer for his question, except that you can’t judge an entire country but a few of its tourists. That same day, as I was waiting outside the bathrooms for my friend, I noticed two blonde girls in bikinis and large bug eyed sunglasses walked by. They happened to be looking for the bathrooms, and asked me if I knew where they were. I scrunched up my face and wrinkled my brow, as if I didn’t understand English. “DOWNDAY EYSTA EL BANYO?” the one asked me, this time in Spanish, and practically shouting, as if perhaps I was not only dumb, but deaf. I told them, in perfect Spanish, where they needed to go, who they needed to pay, and where they could find toilet paper as there was none in
the stalls. “GRASSYASS!” they both shouted (yes, shouted) at me as they, waving, walked in the direction that I had pointed to. Watching them leave, I didn’t know whether to laugh or feel embarrassed.
I hate to say but, I’m sure I watched them go with the same look on my face that I myself had been a victim of the first time I had come. I had been looked at like a dumb tourist, had experienced the tension firsthand my first visit. And I had seen, as an observer, the tourist gaze towards the town and its peoples, and the complex gaze given back. I had moved from tourist to observer to participator as I, looking at the bikini clad blondes walk away, found myself (in a small sense) on the other side of the fence. The tourist-local relationship here is complex- that’s not to say it isn’t a complex relation everywhere in the world, because it is. However, the dynamics are totally different between, say a tourist and a local in Paris, Hong Kong, or even Cozumel than they are in Progreso. In defense of those American girls, they did take the time to learn a few phrases (however poorly pronounced in Spanish), and it’s not fair that a people, any people, be punished for not knowing a foreign language. On the other side of the coin, the tourists seem to be surprised/dismayed that Progreso isn’t more like Cozumel, and there is a sense of unwillingness on both sides to understand where the other side is coming from.
Many of the reviews seemed to agree that Progreso, love it or hate it, was still new to the cruise ship/port town game, and that things would probably be entirely different in a few years. I’m not so sure I agree- the lure of Uxmal and Chitchen, and for the shoppers, the Malls of Merida, combined with the poor winds and nature of the ultimate stop in Cozumel might continue to entice the tourists out of the city, even if major beach, land, or commercial development continues (as they will, and which have already underway, though only making a slight difference in the number of tourists who stay). Will Progreso slowly evolve into the next Playa del Carmen or Cancun? I think not. I am certain, however, that whether or not the majority stay in the town or leave for excursions, the tourists will continue to come, and it will be interesting to see how these interactions play out.
Progreso: tierra y consumo
El propósito económico con el que el puerto fue fundado en cuanto a distancia con la capital del Estado de Yucatán y otros puertos, se puede apreciar tanto por las viejas rieles que aun sobreviven al paso de la modernidad y las cuales hablan de la exportación del llamado “oro verde”. Hoy día, en pleno siglo XXI, las actividades económicas principales del Puerto de Progreso, han dejado atrás la exportación de henequén, para fijarse en la pesca, el turismo y la presencia permanente de Pemex debido a los gasoductos cuyo destino es Mérida.
El turismo y la pesca son actividades temporales, pues la primera depende de las épocas vacacionales y los arribos de cruceros dos veces por semana, mientras que la segunda depende de las temporadas de veda, frentes fríos y huracanes. Por esta razón los pescadores deben buscar trabajos temporales, ya sea en Mérida o en la localidad a través de los trabajos ofertados por el Ayuntamiento de Progreso, que en su mayoría son al servicio de la comunidad como la limpieza de las playas. Durante la temporada de veda del mero (del 15 de febrero al 15 de marzo) los pescadores a través de un programa de apoyo a brindado por el Gobierno del Estado de Yucatán, reciben un apoyo económico de 300 pesos por 4 semanas y despensas del DIF. Solamente en Progreso se tienen registrados unos 2300 pescadores, aproximadamente. La veda de mero no sólo tiene un impacto económico sino también social a nivel familiar, pues los pescadores salen a altamar por un mes, dejando en tierra a sus mujeres e hijos.
Por las noches, entre autos lujos que se escabullen rápidamente por las calles del centro, también lo hacen trabajadores con uniformes de Pemex que en motos se dispersan por el puerto. Su presencia revela el conflicto entre pescadores y Petróleos Mexicanos, puesto que como consecuencia de la industria petrolera, las especies marinas se alejan de las costas. A una escala mayor, las políticas económicas de la Nación se sobreponen a las necesidades locales de los pescadores, puesto que en pro de un beneficio nacional cuyas divisas son centralizadas, la economía local se ve afectada y no recibe un beneficio directo, es decir, Pemex no representa un aumento de empleos en la localidad, pues por las características del trabajo se necesita contratar a personas con un nivel de preparación especializada. El personal de Pemex en Progreso, en su mayoría esta conformado por gente del interior de la Republica, como Michoacán, Tabasco, Veracruz, entre otros. Los trabajadores viven en el puerto todo el año y trabajan en tres turnos diferentes, este tipo de empleo requiere que compren casa en el Puerto, pues cuentan con prestaciones de las que carecen las clases marginadas, por ejemplo quienes viven a orillas del mangle.
Otro de los rubros con los que se comercia en el Puerto es la propia tierra, mientras más cercana al Playón las propiedades aumentan su valor y se trata de casas de verano que sólo se aprovechan en temporadas vacacionales, siendo Semana Santa en el mes de abril la más prolongada, estas casas en su mayoría son propiedad de familias meridanas. Sin embargo, la falta de propiedad, la escases de empleo durante las temporadas bajas, y la marginalidad, ha hecho del robo a este tipo de casas algo común, el saqueo consiste por lo general en el robo de las instalaciones eléctricas y tuberías para obtener cobre.
Empresas Extranjeras, como los bancos, aunado a las políticas del Gobierno del Estado de Yucatán, que en su actual administración busca impulsar el turismo en la zona, también ven la tierra como un atractivo a ofertar, este es el caso de CMH, banco dirigido a ciudadanos de Canadá, Estados Unidos, Inglaterra y España. El banco ofrece fideicomisos que en su mayoría contratan jubilados, los cuales pueden obtener viviendas o terrenos que se cotizan en dólares.
Existen aproximadamente 300 Canadienses que regularmente regresan año con año a vivir en el puerto seis meses para escapar del invierno de Canadá. Ellos también han sufrido robos a sus viviendas, como lo denuncia el Diario de Yucatán en su nota del 16 de febrero del presente año en su sección Local. Lo que pone en evidencia la desigualdad en propiedad de tierra, gracias a los imaginarios que la industria del turismo construye usándola como mercancía de cambio.
Las políticas en pro del turismo que impulsa el gobierno, transforman el espacio convirtiendo la zona del malecón en un paradero económico destinado principalmente a los extranjeros que llegan en los cruceros. La importancia del turismo en la economía estatal se ve reflejado en las inversiones del gobierno para realizar las obras del malecón que lo asemejan mucho a lo observado por el grupo del año pasado en Majahual. Sin embargo, la apuesta al turismo como reactivador de la economia local viene de años atras con la fundación del Puente de Altura.
El Progreso es bienvenido.
Existen datos históricos irrefutables, esos que la Historia como disciplina aun en su posmoderna maleabilidad los consiente y los presenta como objetivos. Así que para recontar la historia de este pueblo de pescadores que ostenta el rimbombante nombre de Progreso comenzaremos por el principio; el territorio queda comprendido entre los paralelos 21° 10' y 21° 19' latitud norte y los meridianos 89° 34' y 89° 57' longitud oeste; posee una altura promedio de 2 metros sobre el nivel del mar. Limita al norte con el Golfo de México; al sur con Ucu y Merida al este con Ixil y Chicxulub y al oeste con Sisal. El 1º de julio de 1871 fue fundado el puerto de Progreso con la categoría de pueblo, que pierde el 9 de enero de 1875 al convertirse en villa, nueve meses más tarde el 4 de octubre del mismo año se le otorga el título de ciudad que hasta nuestros días conserva tras las construcciones de inversiones de los dirigentes residentes de Mérida. Se bautiza con el nombre de Progreso de Castro, en honor al fundador de la ciudad en 1911 Juan Miguel de Castro. Este ilustre hijo del estado; según los cronistas contemporáneos de la ciudad Romeo y Rubén Frías, “era un hombre visionario y amante de la prosperidad de Yucatán al percatarse de el potencial de la localización mas cercana a la capital para el beneficio de la exportación de henequén y otros negocios que llegaban o iban por vía marítima.”
En el trabajo redactado por los mencionados cronistas, titulado Monografía. Historia, geografía marítima y cultural de Progreso de Castro, Yucatán, publicada en dos ediciones en la misma editorial del Ayuntamiento de la ciudad de Progreso trata no de decepcionar al lector sobre lo prometido en el titulo, al exponer diversos detalles socioculturales y económicos de la ciudad. Mediante el uso de una prosa imperativa los hermanos Frías revisan de manera bastante general y un tanto pretenciosa los acontecimientos que dieron forma a la construcción de la ciudad. Además de proponer una mirada un tanto excluyente de las aportaciones de distintos grupos étnicos a la región así como consecuentemente la de distintos grupos sociales que se beneficiaron o perjudicaron de la construcción de un muelle en esta parte de la Península. Esta propuesta histórica es mas que nada, una oda a figuras que responden a una tradición de valores vinculados a la macro-historia Mexicana; como por ejemplo al destacar la visita al puerto del presidente de la Republica Porfirio Díaz o del entonces candidato presidencial Francisco Madero, sin descuidar los protagonismos que iban sucediendo conforme a como iba cambiando el panorama político en uno de los puntos mas alejados del poder central del país. Por citar algunos, la familia Cantón en su desempeño para promover la construcción del ferrocarril y posteriormente la carretera asfaltada desde Mérida hasta Progreso, los descendientes de Castro Martín o los Lizama Villafañe, quienes ostentaron una posición protagónica en los medios de comunicación y movimientos culturales promovidos en el puerto de Progreso. El bienestar económico de ciertas familias residentes de Yucatán fue la razón por la cual esta ciudad fue fundada y al pasar de los años fue auspiciada económicamente mayormente en respuesta a sus proyectos. Aunque estas movidas beneficiaron a ciertos sectores ajenos a los círculos de poder; a lo cual podemos adjudicar las oleadas migratorias de otras partes del estado e incluso de personas provenientes de las afueras de este, podemos observar las diferencias sociales fácilmente delimitables en la ciudad. Conforme exploramos la distribución de los recursos y acorde con una interpretación geográfica de la realidad de la región, el paisaje y su manipulación juegan un papel fundamental debido a las misma limitaciones que este impone.
Sin embargo el territorio fue testigo de ataques piratas, las inmigraciones a veces forzadas otras insistentemente sugeridas que son parte de la realidad histórica de este pueblo y que no aparece en el recuento redactado por los hermanos Frías. Estos por el contrario les dieron prioridad a hacer constar la añoranza por las bohemias y charlas culturales en ‘El cordobés’; punto de reunión mas antiguo del pueblo, y con esto vanagloriar el pasado brillante de las fortunas producidas a espaldas de la producción del henequén. Vale señalar la reprobación que expresa el mismo señor Romeo Frías, en torno a las inversiones extranjeras en Progreso lo cual pude constatar en una entrevista que tuve la oportunidad de tener con el autor. La historia de este pueblo no solo debe limitarse a registrar los triunfos de algunos sino los retos que ha representado mantenerse a la par con ‘el progreso’. Irónicamente, contrario al deseo expresado en su nombre, la conservación de las infraestructuras de Progreso no se encuentra entre las prioridades de los dirigentes de la comunidad, es así como notamos que las divisiones de la comunidad no solo se reflejan en las diferencias señaladas por el acceso a los recursos económicos, sino que se percibe una fragmentación y una discontinuidad histórica determinada en gran parte por la necesidad de adaptarse a los desvaríos de la economía. La ciudad no posee vestigios de asentamiento de origen maya en el territorio del municipio; estructuras angulares en los planes de conservación de los estados mexicanos, pero posee el puerto más importante del estado y junto a este la historia atada al henequén, la miel y el mar. Al mismo tiempo es la ciudad más joven de Yucatán; una juventud que prolonga en vano que estira su arruga, al día de hoy para sonreír a inversionistas y turistas.
La fundación del puerto de Progreso surgió como una necesidad: el traslado de la aduana de Sisal a un sitio más cercano a la capital del estado, de ahí en adelante el establecimiento de la primera línea telegráfica (1871), la inauguración del ferrocarril (1881), la apertura del faro (1893), provienen del deseo de satisfacer las necesidades de quienes andan de paso quienes pretende lucrarse de fibras o paisajes. ¿Cuan distinta es la función de la ciudad en el siglo XXI de la que tuvo en el XIX? En los siguientes trabajos exploraremos las conjeturas que se prologan al hilvanar la economía, los servicios, la cultura, en fin la versión de progreso de esta zona de la Península Yucateca.
Political Challenges, Infrastructure and Schools
Ecological Challenges:
Progreso should not be mistaken as merely being a quant fishing village twenty minutes north from Merida. In fact, there are several characteristics that compile Progeso’s unexpected charm and bustling energy. Behind the brand new Malecon boardwalk lined with restaurants and multi-colored beach umbrellas, along with the sun-soaking vacationers and the locals eager to sell their handmade goods, Progreso’s compelling hidden qualities are distinct. The town is currently facing several political changes and challenges, especially within this current precarious global economy. In this section of the blog, I will turn to the current state of governmental policy and presence within Progreso to give a greater understanding of the lifestyle of locals as well as current challenges that they face on a daily basis.
Similar to the economic geography of Merida, it is apparent that the wealthier neighborhoods of Progreso lie in the north and north-east regions of the city. In these areas, many retired expats from Canada and the United States own the beautiful pastel-colored houses that line the coast. However, further to the south and the far west and east, the local working class Yucatecos actively strut the streets. Not only commercial restaurants and large houses mark the economic stratification, but street pollution as well. Walking down calle 78 from the touristy Malecon towards the Aurrera de Progreso and the Gasolinera Progreso Remos, the increase of garbage in the street becomes evident: Progreso has a grave problem with street contamination and pollution. Apart from the commerce and tourist sector of Progreso, which counts for 60.3% of the active economy, 21.69% of the economy depends on the mining industry, petroleum, manufacturing, construction and electricity. This high industrial dependence- along with tourism- has greatly contributed to Progresos contamination issues. In a recent article in the SIPSE News of the Yucatan, Progreso Mayor, Maria Ester Alonzo Morales says that the garbage in Progreso increases six times over during the vacation seasons. Due to this, Progreso is in a crisis of not knowing where to put their garbage. The mayor has complained that the Semarnat of the federal government (Secretario de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales) has not taken enough initiative in providing a solution to the problem. Without the interference, Morales says, “Now we don’t know what to do with our garbage.” Due to the lack of government support, Progreso’s local Direccion de Ecologia y Medio Ambiente will sign an agreement with local authorities in Merida to send their trash to the city to be dispersed and processed. The mayor stated in an interview, “ Lo tuvimos que hacer antes y ademas de generar un costo adicional para la administración, pues esta mas que probabdo que no es la solucion.” http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/de-nuevo-la-basura-de-progreso-se.html
Sitema Municipal de Agua Portable y Alcantarillado de Progreso on calle 31 by 86, controls the system of clean drinking wáter in the city. They are currently experiencing a financial crisis due to years of local businesses and residents not paying their water taxes. To help stabilize the shortage, the director of Smapap, Irving Castillo Avila, will implement a new policy where during the next nineteen months, the authorites will apply a 50 cent increase each month on
water fees. The domestic tax which is now 25 pesos, will reach 37 pesos in October 2012. The commercial tax, which is 72 pesos will reach 88.50. In an interview, Avilla stated, “Habra mano dura para los que no paguen; se les cortara el servicio. El agua cuesta mucho producirla y muchos no pagan.”
http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/el-aumento-real-del-agua-potable-sera.html
After strolling past SMAPAP, I began to walk north, away from the uncomfortably polluted southern barrios. On calle 74 and 37 in El Centro, I walked past the Office of Civil Registration and El Colegio de Bachilleras del Estado de Yucatan, a local public college. According to the Enciclopedia de los Municipios y Delegaciones de Mexico, there are fifteen preschools in Progreso, twenty-seven Primaria schools. Thirteen Secundaria schools, 27 colleges/bachilleratos, and one school that falls into the category of “nivel superior.” http://www.e-local.gob.mx/work/templates/enciclo/yucatan/municipios/31059a.htm
Schools:
Throughout the city there are abundant Jardines de Ninos and outdoor sports complexes which are all funded by the Secretaria de Education del Estado de Yucatan. They are easily spotted by their legible, green and white signs. A small detail that caught my attention was the painted mural of Chichen Itza in the Jardin de Ninos Consuelo Ruz de Fernandez on calle 37. Quite the contrary to the images we see kids playing with in outdoor parks United States. I thought, “As a matter of fact, what type of images are in the outdoor play spaces of parks in the US? Are there images of like, Iroquois longhouses in the public parks for kids in New York?” Just a thought.
From calle 37 I walked to avenue 88 and calle 31. I passed a sign that read, “Colegio Particular Bilingue Jardin de Ninos Maria Aurora.”
It was a bilingual preschool for kids age four to six. As I stopped to take a photograph which felt awkward, hence, who takes photographs of the outside of a door to a school? One of the teachers came out and asked , “Can I help you.” I then explained my situation. After telling her I was from New York she said, “Buscas trabajo?” I said no, but the thought I working in a bilingual preschool in Progresso seemed intriguing. She then started to talk to me about her family. She has two daughters, one who is fifteen who seems to have dropped out of school, and another nineteen who moved to Merida with her boyfriend and is currently studying to be a nurse. She is divorced and lives alone with her daughter. Since I had just came from the southern barrios, where I saw a lot of graffiti, I asked her, “Porque hay tanto graffiti por aca? Hay problemas con pandillas en Progreso? Que hacen los jovenes por la calle?” She told me that a lot of the graffiti is actually not done by residents of Progreso, but by people who come from “afuera” and vandalize the town. There are no problems with gangs. However, she did mention that there is a large population of youth in the city who don’t go to school, or end up dropping out.
She allowed me to come inside and take a few photos of the school and meet the kids. There were only about twelve children in the school in total. The head teacher of the day, Wendy, is twenty-three years old and seemed quite tired from disciplining the rambunctious preschool troop. Apart from the basic curriculum, Wendy teaches basic, English words such as colors, numbers, and animals, but it seemed like the greatest challenge was just trying to make the kids sit still in their seats.
My next destination was Progreso’s Palacio Municipal, located on calle 80 between 31 and 33. The Palacio Municipal is the center of political administration. In Progreso, there are 25 localities. The five largest and most important are Progreso, Campestre Flamboyanes, San Ignacio, Pariso, and La Candelarita. The offices located at the Palacio Principal watch over these 25 provinces. The political departments are divided among the following offices: the office of the secretary president (who is currently Felipe Calderón Hinojosa http://www.puertosyucatan.com/cgi-bin/news.cgi?folio=220) the local police, health and public services, transport and education, performances, ecology and markets (flea markets), nomenclature and regulations, handicap services, military recruitment, and gardens and parks. The “bolsa de trabajo” is also a part of the services that are given at the Palacio Municipal. The local administration consists of the Town Council, Town Police, and the Town Offices and agencies. According to the Town Hall council, the following responsibilities are divided amongst these three powers, and their specific services they provide in the city can be found on this link-
http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/el-aumento-real-del-agua-potable-sera.html
Interview with Lourdes Cristin Sampedro, Local Coordinator of Employment, “Bolsa de Trabajo.” Palacio Municipal, Calle 80 x 31 y 33, Planta Baja. Tuesday February 22.
I met Lourdes by complete chance. I was walking past the office of Military recruitment taking photos when she called out to me from inside the office, “Can I help you with something?” I entered and explained who I was and what I was doing in Progresso. She got immediately stimulated by the project. It seemed as though there hadn’t been much action around the office, so she seemed eager to discuss with someone about the current employment situation and political climate in general in Progresso. She exclaimed, “What do you want to know? I can tell you about anything you want to know.” Lourdes grew up in Progresso but had lived for various years in the D.F obtaining her Masters in Anthropology and Education. She then lived in Canada for various years afterwards. Her education and life travels eventually brought her back to the humble fishing village of her youth.
I casually asked her a very broad, general question, “So, how is the economy here? The job market?” Her answer was quite direct, “Estamos en el sótano.” She proclaimed, “Es la época de la hacienda.” I wasn’t exactly sure what she meant by that. “What do you mean?” I asked. She continued to explain that the Mexican government has favored North American capitalism to the point where they have “forgotten about their own people.” She discussed how the middle class is slowly disappearing, the poor class is increasing, and the rich class is decreasing. She spoke of the corruption of the federal government, and how Yucatecos pay a high federal tax, but rarely does this money trickle down to the people. I asked, “But what about all of this new construction that is happening around the city?” She said that the budget for these projects (for example the rebuilding of the Malecón) is coming from the state budget and from what I could observe, it seemed as though that budget was quite generous.
As a quick side note, in an article that came out in Opinion de Yucatan in November 2010, it says that the state government has put aside 50 million pesos to rebuild the Malecón. This will include a two- lane street, new street lights, garbage bins, wider sidewalks for security, new ramps for the handicapped, and the “serpent-like” mural will be rebuilt with newer material that is more resistant to the strength of hurricanes that frequently pass by the region.
Lourdes continued on to explain the minimum wage in Yucatan and what work life is like for a local Progresano. The average monthly salary living on minimum wage is $1500 pesos a month. Someone who works on a minimum wage job will work up to twelve hours a day and make $50 pesos on average. She exclaimed, “Los sueldos son pésimos.” She said on average on a weekly basis an engineer (a career highly valued that requires years of study) could gain $500 pesos. This is nothing to live by. She then added, “We (pointing to her coworker, Esther who was casually flipping through the local newspaper) are in a good position because we work for the government. Government jobs pay well. But if we were working as secretaries in any other office, we would be living on this minimum wage.” She says many engineers and doctors try to leave the country to find better work, but no longer are they turning to the United States. I asked her, “I would imagine that the United States is becoming less popular to move to because of the whole economic crisis. Where do Mexicans with this level of education go?” She answered, “More recently many travel to Japan, China, and Australia.” But she also said that the people who have the chance to move, “No tienen nada que perder.” She said that work in Mexico is not valued, and that this is part of the problem.
The second question I asked Lourdes was the structure of the public school system. Similar to the United States, starting at four years old kids begin kinder; which is three years. Then they go to primaria, which is another three years. Then after that they begin secundaria which is another three years. After this they have the option to go to prepa or bachillerato. Once students reach the age of prepa, or bachilleto, their studies become extremely focused on one skill or subject. Prepa is usually associated with a vocational skill: car mechanic, computer science etc. Bachilleto might be more math, science, or technology focused. According to Lourdes, if a student wants to continue on in the humanities or medicine, they need to study and work harder to get accepted into a University. Apparently there are no major universities in Progreso for this type of study, so many young students move to Merida if this is their goal.
As a second side note, Progreso has a wide array of public and private schools, the public schools outnumbering the private.
However, Progreso does offer a special type of educational opportunity. El Centro de Los Estudios Tecnologicos del Mar, or CETA specializes in tecnological studies related to the fishing and industry sector. They offer Bachilleratos in the following fields: Aquaculture, Administration, Nutrition, Naval Construction, Electronics, Motors, Sport Fishing, and Refrigeration. The degree in Refrigeration specifically caught my attention. The description on the schools website goes as follows, “La Carrera de Técnico en Refrigeración y Aire Acondicionado proporciona las herramientas necesarias para aplicar los principios de refrigeración y el aire acondicionado e cualquier context, realizando el mantenimiento en sistemas de refrigeración doméstica, comercial, cámaras frigoríficas, sistemas de aire acondicionado tipo ventana, minisplit, automotriz y tipo paquete. Podrá emplearse en Talleres de refrigeración, centros comerciales, congeladoras, empacadoras, embotelladoras, hotleria, y centros de diversiones.”
This degree certainly seems something that pertains specifically to the warm climate of the Yucatan.
Lourdes also expressed an obvious ferver towards the fact that a lot of teachers in the public schools are not well-suited for their jobs.
My next question for Lourdes pertained to the population of foreigners who come to Progreso and stay, such as the retired Canadians and North Americans. How do the locals perceive all of the tourism and outside investment? She said, “la población no recibe ningún beneficio del turismo.” The money goes directly into the powers of private investors within Yucatan. She mentioned that if you ask an expat who lives in Progreso what they like about living here, the first word they will say is “la tranquilidad.” “No vienen porque a les gusta a nosotros. Vienen por la tranquilidad, la playa.” She then began to talk about how it’s easy for them to live here, because their dollar goes a long way.
Due to my past experiences in Cuba, and seeing how the local police forces favored the foreigner more than the local, I asked her, “Does the police look out after the foreigners in Progreso more than the locals?” She replied with a firm, “Si. Se cuidan más a las turistas que el pueblo.” From this, I asked her if there was a lot of crime in Progreso. She said that there is not much crime at all. Progreso doesn’t even have it’s own prison. What exists is more of a detention center where you get locked up if you steal someone’s purse, or vandalize a building. According to Lourdes, the crime in Progreso usually consists of these types of minor crimes. If there is a murder or rape reported, they are sent to the higher courts and incarceration facilities in Merida. By the way, she also told me that the penetenciaria in Merida is the best place to buy a hammock. Every Saturday they have a market where they sell crafts and other goods that they make in the prison. The money also goes towards the inmates families. I asked her where this detention center was located in Progreso. She said, “El Puerto de Abrigo.”
Puerto de Abrigo. Saturday, February 26. A very sweaty ride in a combi takes to me to outskirts of Progreso. It drops me in what seems to be, a place slightly in the middle of nowhere. Boatville, so it seemed. Puerto de Abrigo is the heart of Progreso’s fishing industry. It is where all of the fisherman sail out to sea, but it is also where one can find the main police station. I could not find the local carcel, and thought best just to stay away. There was also the office of the Fiscalia General del Estado, and the Direccion de Obras Desarollo Urbano y Servicios Publicos. Once again, the pollution and the stench was potent coming from the industrious port.
Progreso should not be mistaken as merely being a quant fishing village twenty minutes north from Merida. In fact, there are several characteristics that compile Progeso’s unexpected charm and bustling energy. Behind the brand new Malecon boardwalk lined with restaurants and multi-colored beach umbrellas, along with the sun-soaking vacationers and the locals eager to sell their handmade goods, Progreso’s compelling hidden qualities are distinct. The town is currently facing several political changes and challenges, especially within this current precarious global economy. In this section of the blog, I will turn to the current state of governmental policy and presence within Progreso to give a greater understanding of the lifestyle of locals as well as current challenges that they face on a daily basis.
Similar to the economic geography of Merida, it is apparent that the wealthier neighborhoods of Progreso lie in the north and north-east regions of the city. In these areas, many retired expats from Canada and the United States own the beautiful pastel-colored houses that line the coast. However, further to the south and the far west and east, the local working class Yucatecos actively strut the streets. Not only commercial restaurants and large houses mark the economic stratification, but street pollution as well. Walking down calle 78 from the touristy Malecon towards the Aurrera de Progreso and the Gasolinera Progreso Remos, the increase of garbage in the street becomes evident: Progreso has a grave problem with street contamination and pollution. Apart from the commerce and tourist sector of Progreso, which counts for 60.3% of the active economy, 21.69% of the economy depends on the mining industry, petroleum, manufacturing, construction and electricity. This high industrial dependence- along with tourism- has greatly contributed to Progresos contamination issues. In a recent article in the SIPSE News of the Yucatan, Progreso Mayor, Maria Ester Alonzo Morales says that the garbage in Progreso increases six times over during the vacation seasons. Due to this, Progreso is in a crisis of not knowing where to put their garbage. The mayor has complained that the Semarnat of the federal government (Secretario de Medio Ambiente y Recursos Naturales) has not taken enough initiative in providing a solution to the problem. Without the interference, Morales says, “Now we don’t know what to do with our garbage.” Due to the lack of government support, Progreso’s local Direccion de Ecologia y Medio Ambiente will sign an agreement with local authorities in Merida to send their trash to the city to be dispersed and processed. The mayor stated in an interview, “ Lo tuvimos que hacer antes y ademas de generar un costo adicional para la administración, pues esta mas que probabdo que no es la solucion.” http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/de-nuevo-la-basura-de-progreso-se.html
Sitema Municipal de Agua Portable y Alcantarillado de Progreso on calle 31 by 86, controls the system of clean drinking wáter in the city. They are currently experiencing a financial crisis due to years of local businesses and residents not paying their water taxes. To help stabilize the shortage, the director of Smapap, Irving Castillo Avila, will implement a new policy where during the next nineteen months, the authorites will apply a 50 cent increase each month on
water fees. The domestic tax which is now 25 pesos, will reach 37 pesos in October 2012. The commercial tax, which is 72 pesos will reach 88.50. In an interview, Avilla stated, “Habra mano dura para los que no paguen; se les cortara el servicio. El agua cuesta mucho producirla y muchos no pagan.”
http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/el-aumento-real-del-agua-potable-sera.html
After strolling past SMAPAP, I began to walk north, away from the uncomfortably polluted southern barrios. On calle 74 and 37 in El Centro, I walked past the Office of Civil Registration and El Colegio de Bachilleras del Estado de Yucatan, a local public college. According to the Enciclopedia de los Municipios y Delegaciones de Mexico, there are fifteen preschools in Progreso, twenty-seven Primaria schools. Thirteen Secundaria schools, 27 colleges/bachilleratos, and one school that falls into the category of “nivel superior.” http://www.e-local.gob.mx/work/templates/enciclo/yucatan/municipios/31059a.htm
Schools:
Throughout the city there are abundant Jardines de Ninos and outdoor sports complexes which are all funded by the Secretaria de Education del Estado de Yucatan. They are easily spotted by their legible, green and white signs. A small detail that caught my attention was the painted mural of Chichen Itza in the Jardin de Ninos Consuelo Ruz de Fernandez on calle 37. Quite the contrary to the images we see kids playing with in outdoor parks United States. I thought, “As a matter of fact, what type of images are in the outdoor play spaces of parks in the US? Are there images of like, Iroquois longhouses in the public parks for kids in New York?” Just a thought.
From calle 37 I walked to avenue 88 and calle 31. I passed a sign that read, “Colegio Particular Bilingue Jardin de Ninos Maria Aurora.”
It was a bilingual preschool for kids age four to six. As I stopped to take a photograph which felt awkward, hence, who takes photographs of the outside of a door to a school? One of the teachers came out and asked , “Can I help you.” I then explained my situation. After telling her I was from New York she said, “Buscas trabajo?” I said no, but the thought I working in a bilingual preschool in Progresso seemed intriguing. She then started to talk to me about her family. She has two daughters, one who is fifteen who seems to have dropped out of school, and another nineteen who moved to Merida with her boyfriend and is currently studying to be a nurse. She is divorced and lives alone with her daughter. Since I had just came from the southern barrios, where I saw a lot of graffiti, I asked her, “Porque hay tanto graffiti por aca? Hay problemas con pandillas en Progreso? Que hacen los jovenes por la calle?” She told me that a lot of the graffiti is actually not done by residents of Progreso, but by people who come from “afuera” and vandalize the town. There are no problems with gangs. However, she did mention that there is a large population of youth in the city who don’t go to school, or end up dropping out.
She allowed me to come inside and take a few photos of the school and meet the kids. There were only about twelve children in the school in total. The head teacher of the day, Wendy, is twenty-three years old and seemed quite tired from disciplining the rambunctious preschool troop. Apart from the basic curriculum, Wendy teaches basic, English words such as colors, numbers, and animals, but it seemed like the greatest challenge was just trying to make the kids sit still in their seats.
My next destination was Progreso’s Palacio Municipal, located on calle 80 between 31 and 33. The Palacio Municipal is the center of political administration. In Progreso, there are 25 localities. The five largest and most important are Progreso, Campestre Flamboyanes, San Ignacio, Pariso, and La Candelarita. The offices located at the Palacio Principal watch over these 25 provinces. The political departments are divided among the following offices: the office of the secretary president (who is currently Felipe Calderón Hinojosa http://www.puertosyucatan.com/cgi-bin/news.cgi?folio=220) the local police, health and public services, transport and education, performances, ecology and markets (flea markets), nomenclature and regulations, handicap services, military recruitment, and gardens and parks. The “bolsa de trabajo” is also a part of the services that are given at the Palacio Municipal. The local administration consists of the Town Council, Town Police, and the Town Offices and agencies. According to the Town Hall council, the following responsibilities are divided amongst these three powers, and their specific services they provide in the city can be found on this link-
http://www.progresohoy.com/2011/02/el-aumento-real-del-agua-potable-sera.html
Interview with Lourdes Cristin Sampedro, Local Coordinator of Employment, “Bolsa de Trabajo.” Palacio Municipal, Calle 80 x 31 y 33, Planta Baja. Tuesday February 22.
I met Lourdes by complete chance. I was walking past the office of Military recruitment taking photos when she called out to me from inside the office, “Can I help you with something?” I entered and explained who I was and what I was doing in Progresso. She got immediately stimulated by the project. It seemed as though there hadn’t been much action around the office, so she seemed eager to discuss with someone about the current employment situation and political climate in general in Progresso. She exclaimed, “What do you want to know? I can tell you about anything you want to know.” Lourdes grew up in Progresso but had lived for various years in the D.F obtaining her Masters in Anthropology and Education. She then lived in Canada for various years afterwards. Her education and life travels eventually brought her back to the humble fishing village of her youth.
I casually asked her a very broad, general question, “So, how is the economy here? The job market?” Her answer was quite direct, “Estamos en el sótano.” She proclaimed, “Es la época de la hacienda.” I wasn’t exactly sure what she meant by that. “What do you mean?” I asked. She continued to explain that the Mexican government has favored North American capitalism to the point where they have “forgotten about their own people.” She discussed how the middle class is slowly disappearing, the poor class is increasing, and the rich class is decreasing. She spoke of the corruption of the federal government, and how Yucatecos pay a high federal tax, but rarely does this money trickle down to the people. I asked, “But what about all of this new construction that is happening around the city?” She said that the budget for these projects (for example the rebuilding of the Malecón) is coming from the state budget and from what I could observe, it seemed as though that budget was quite generous.
As a quick side note, in an article that came out in Opinion de Yucatan in November 2010, it says that the state government has put aside 50 million pesos to rebuild the Malecón. This will include a two- lane street, new street lights, garbage bins, wider sidewalks for security, new ramps for the handicapped, and the “serpent-like” mural will be rebuilt with newer material that is more resistant to the strength of hurricanes that frequently pass by the region.
Lourdes continued on to explain the minimum wage in Yucatan and what work life is like for a local Progresano. The average monthly salary living on minimum wage is $1500 pesos a month. Someone who works on a minimum wage job will work up to twelve hours a day and make $50 pesos on average. She exclaimed, “Los sueldos son pésimos.” She said on average on a weekly basis an engineer (a career highly valued that requires years of study) could gain $500 pesos. This is nothing to live by. She then added, “We (pointing to her coworker, Esther who was casually flipping through the local newspaper) are in a good position because we work for the government. Government jobs pay well. But if we were working as secretaries in any other office, we would be living on this minimum wage.” She says many engineers and doctors try to leave the country to find better work, but no longer are they turning to the United States. I asked her, “I would imagine that the United States is becoming less popular to move to because of the whole economic crisis. Where do Mexicans with this level of education go?” She answered, “More recently many travel to Japan, China, and Australia.” But she also said that the people who have the chance to move, “No tienen nada que perder.” She said that work in Mexico is not valued, and that this is part of the problem.
The second question I asked Lourdes was the structure of the public school system. Similar to the United States, starting at four years old kids begin kinder; which is three years. Then they go to primaria, which is another three years. Then after that they begin secundaria which is another three years. After this they have the option to go to prepa or bachillerato. Once students reach the age of prepa, or bachilleto, their studies become extremely focused on one skill or subject. Prepa is usually associated with a vocational skill: car mechanic, computer science etc. Bachilleto might be more math, science, or technology focused. According to Lourdes, if a student wants to continue on in the humanities or medicine, they need to study and work harder to get accepted into a University. Apparently there are no major universities in Progreso for this type of study, so many young students move to Merida if this is their goal.
As a second side note, Progreso has a wide array of public and private schools, the public schools outnumbering the private.
However, Progreso does offer a special type of educational opportunity. El Centro de Los Estudios Tecnologicos del Mar, or CETA specializes in tecnological studies related to the fishing and industry sector. They offer Bachilleratos in the following fields: Aquaculture, Administration, Nutrition, Naval Construction, Electronics, Motors, Sport Fishing, and Refrigeration. The degree in Refrigeration specifically caught my attention. The description on the schools website goes as follows, “La Carrera de Técnico en Refrigeración y Aire Acondicionado proporciona las herramientas necesarias para aplicar los principios de refrigeración y el aire acondicionado e cualquier context, realizando el mantenimiento en sistemas de refrigeración doméstica, comercial, cámaras frigoríficas, sistemas de aire acondicionado tipo ventana, minisplit, automotriz y tipo paquete. Podrá emplearse en Talleres de refrigeración, centros comerciales, congeladoras, empacadoras, embotelladoras, hotleria, y centros de diversiones.”
This degree certainly seems something that pertains specifically to the warm climate of the Yucatan.
Lourdes also expressed an obvious ferver towards the fact that a lot of teachers in the public schools are not well-suited for their jobs.
My next question for Lourdes pertained to the population of foreigners who come to Progreso and stay, such as the retired Canadians and North Americans. How do the locals perceive all of the tourism and outside investment? She said, “la población no recibe ningún beneficio del turismo.” The money goes directly into the powers of private investors within Yucatan. She mentioned that if you ask an expat who lives in Progreso what they like about living here, the first word they will say is “la tranquilidad.” “No vienen porque a les gusta a nosotros. Vienen por la tranquilidad, la playa.” She then began to talk about how it’s easy for them to live here, because their dollar goes a long way.
Due to my past experiences in Cuba, and seeing how the local police forces favored the foreigner more than the local, I asked her, “Does the police look out after the foreigners in Progreso more than the locals?” She replied with a firm, “Si. Se cuidan más a las turistas que el pueblo.” From this, I asked her if there was a lot of crime in Progreso. She said that there is not much crime at all. Progreso doesn’t even have it’s own prison. What exists is more of a detention center where you get locked up if you steal someone’s purse, or vandalize a building. According to Lourdes, the crime in Progreso usually consists of these types of minor crimes. If there is a murder or rape reported, they are sent to the higher courts and incarceration facilities in Merida. By the way, she also told me that the penetenciaria in Merida is the best place to buy a hammock. Every Saturday they have a market where they sell crafts and other goods that they make in the prison. The money also goes towards the inmates families. I asked her where this detention center was located in Progreso. She said, “El Puerto de Abrigo.”
Puerto de Abrigo. Saturday, February 26. A very sweaty ride in a combi takes to me to outskirts of Progreso. It drops me in what seems to be, a place slightly in the middle of nowhere. Boatville, so it seemed. Puerto de Abrigo is the heart of Progreso’s fishing industry. It is where all of the fisherman sail out to sea, but it is also where one can find the main police station. I could not find the local carcel, and thought best just to stay away. There was also the office of the Fiscalia General del Estado, and the Direccion de Obras Desarollo Urbano y Servicios Publicos. Once again, the pollution and the stench was potent coming from the industrious port.
Lo que el ‘gaze’ turista no huele: hacia una composición y realidad de las comunidades.
Como hemos visto con los trabajos de Yare, Fior y Kim, en la ciudad de Progreso es importante estudiar el vinculo fuerte que existe entre el desarrollo histórico y el desarrollo económico. Obviamente, se ha destacado un ‘boom’ económico muy fuerte en torno a la pesca y el turismo. Y mientras es importante subrayar el papel fundamental que juegan ciertos momentos históricos en torno al ‘boom’ económico y el crecimiento de la población, me interesa más ver como la sociedad en Progreso se ha dividido históricamente y en la actualidad.
Desde luego, su fundación en 1871 marca el primer momento importante en cuanto al desarrollo social. Si vemos a Progreso desde una satélite de Google “Earth” podemos ver como forma un tipo de cinto a lo largo de la costa, aproximadamente unos 12 kilómetros de oriente a poniente e un kilómetro y medio de Norte a Sur:
El crecimiento de la población comienza en el Centro y se extiende hacia el oriente y poniente. Desde los finales del siglo XIX hasta aproximadamente los años 1940’s hay un gran crecimiento hacia el oriente por parte de los “acauladados” Meridanos en sus casas de verano. Inclusive hasta llegan Árabes y Libaneses de Mérida a la zona Norte del Oriente. Sin embargo, a partir de los años 40’s, 50’s y especialmente en los 1960’s, hay un flujo migratorio muy fuerte hacia el poniente y en especial hacia el Sur del centro compuesto por personas que venían de diferentes partes de México. ¿Pero por qué se da tal ola de migración?
Primero que todo, es importante mencionar que Progreso básicamente fue construido en cima de unos humedales o pantanos. Es decir, lo que hoy forma parte de los diferentes barrios o “colonias” ya estén en el centro, oriente o poniente, antes era esencialmente un pantano. Por lo tanto, para poder construir una ciudad en cima de estos humedales, se necesitaron traer a lo que los locales les llaman las famosas “dragas” (tractores de excavación – empresa constructora):
(Aun se puede ver vegetación de pantano en las calles entre las casas):
Y es por esta misma razón que empiezan a llegar cientos de familias de diferentes partes de la República a buscar trabajo. Dicho esto, no es hasta la inauguración del “Puerto de Abrigo Yucalpetén” en 1968 donde realmente estalla el flujo migratorio:
Este Puerto, el cual se fundamentaba en la industria pesquera, hace que empiecen a llegar familias de partes como Guerrero, Veracruz, el Distrito Federal y Oaxaca. Al principio, estas familias se empezaron a instalar en la parte Sur del Centro de Progreso, pero a como fue pasando el tiempo se van mas hacia el poniente y así mas cerca de los trabajos del puerto. Como vienen de afuera y como ya habían familias “veraniegas” instaladas cerca de la playa, estas familias se ven desde un principio marginadas y tienen que instalarse mayoritariamente en lo que básicamente forma la zona del pantano (o sea, lejos de la playa).
Entre las primeras colonias que se nombran están: Francisco Madero o la colonia “huacha”, la Benito Juárez, la Revolución, la Canul Reyes y la Juan Montalvo. Algunas de las mas recientes son: la Vicente Guerrero o la “bondoj”, la Yucalpetén, y la Nueva Yucalpetén. Históricamente y en la actualidad, las colonias que mas marginadas se han visto son la Benito Juárez y la Francisco Madero que forman parte del Sur-Centro o la Vicente Guerrero que forma parte del Sur-Poniente. Estas comunidades están al borde con el pantano y sufren de un fuerte olor a huevo podrido a causa del pantano que raramente se mantiene limpio, mientras que las comunidades mas al Norte (ya sea Centro, Oriente o Poniente) disfrutan del fresco viento del mar y las delicias del turismo.
Casa en el Sur-Oriente:
Casa en el Norte-Oriente:
En fin, viendo un poco mas allá de lo que es un “gaze” turista y los diferentes contrastes visuales que se pueden dar, un viaje a Progreso y su composición social también promete chocar al visitante con fuertes disparidades olfatorias. Pues como lo he mencionado, si uno bien disfruta de los olores a Pescado frito y a la fresca brisa del mar en el cinto Norte de Progreso; basta solo con viajar cinco o diez cuadras (dependiendo del Oriente, Centro o Poniente) hacia el Sur para poder oler a basura quemada y huevo podrido. No obstante, no nos debemos olvidar que los extranjeros que son dueños de propiedades de verano no son los únicos ricos de Progreso, ya que también existen historias de triunfo migratorio que se han ganado la vida y su casita junto al mar a través de la industria de la pesca y las ganancias que han generado en toda una vida. Como me lo dijo el director del centro de cultura de Progreso: “Un pescador de Veracruz hace 50 años tenía que vivir en una casita de cartón y pues ahora sus hijos y nietos pueden disfrutar de una casa frente al mar.” Las realidades de Progreso y sus contrastes son fuertes, si. Pero es una ciudad fundada por migraciones obreras que buscaban trabajo y una mejor vida, y que de alguna manera u otra encontraron por lo menos una de las dos.
Desde luego, su fundación en 1871 marca el primer momento importante en cuanto al desarrollo social. Si vemos a Progreso desde una satélite de Google “Earth” podemos ver como forma un tipo de cinto a lo largo de la costa, aproximadamente unos 12 kilómetros de oriente a poniente e un kilómetro y medio de Norte a Sur:
El crecimiento de la población comienza en el Centro y se extiende hacia el oriente y poniente. Desde los finales del siglo XIX hasta aproximadamente los años 1940’s hay un gran crecimiento hacia el oriente por parte de los “acauladados” Meridanos en sus casas de verano. Inclusive hasta llegan Árabes y Libaneses de Mérida a la zona Norte del Oriente. Sin embargo, a partir de los años 40’s, 50’s y especialmente en los 1960’s, hay un flujo migratorio muy fuerte hacia el poniente y en especial hacia el Sur del centro compuesto por personas que venían de diferentes partes de México. ¿Pero por qué se da tal ola de migración?
Primero que todo, es importante mencionar que Progreso básicamente fue construido en cima de unos humedales o pantanos. Es decir, lo que hoy forma parte de los diferentes barrios o “colonias” ya estén en el centro, oriente o poniente, antes era esencialmente un pantano. Por lo tanto, para poder construir una ciudad en cima de estos humedales, se necesitaron traer a lo que los locales les llaman las famosas “dragas” (tractores de excavación – empresa constructora):
(Aun se puede ver vegetación de pantano en las calles entre las casas):
Y es por esta misma razón que empiezan a llegar cientos de familias de diferentes partes de la República a buscar trabajo. Dicho esto, no es hasta la inauguración del “Puerto de Abrigo Yucalpetén” en 1968 donde realmente estalla el flujo migratorio:
Este Puerto, el cual se fundamentaba en la industria pesquera, hace que empiecen a llegar familias de partes como Guerrero, Veracruz, el Distrito Federal y Oaxaca. Al principio, estas familias se empezaron a instalar en la parte Sur del Centro de Progreso, pero a como fue pasando el tiempo se van mas hacia el poniente y así mas cerca de los trabajos del puerto. Como vienen de afuera y como ya habían familias “veraniegas” instaladas cerca de la playa, estas familias se ven desde un principio marginadas y tienen que instalarse mayoritariamente en lo que básicamente forma la zona del pantano (o sea, lejos de la playa).
Entre las primeras colonias que se nombran están: Francisco Madero o la colonia “huacha”, la Benito Juárez, la Revolución, la Canul Reyes y la Juan Montalvo. Algunas de las mas recientes son: la Vicente Guerrero o la “bondoj”, la Yucalpetén, y la Nueva Yucalpetén. Históricamente y en la actualidad, las colonias que mas marginadas se han visto son la Benito Juárez y la Francisco Madero que forman parte del Sur-Centro o la Vicente Guerrero que forma parte del Sur-Poniente. Estas comunidades están al borde con el pantano y sufren de un fuerte olor a huevo podrido a causa del pantano que raramente se mantiene limpio, mientras que las comunidades mas al Norte (ya sea Centro, Oriente o Poniente) disfrutan del fresco viento del mar y las delicias del turismo.
Casa en el Sur-Oriente:
Casa en el Norte-Oriente:
En fin, viendo un poco mas allá de lo que es un “gaze” turista y los diferentes contrastes visuales que se pueden dar, un viaje a Progreso y su composición social también promete chocar al visitante con fuertes disparidades olfatorias. Pues como lo he mencionado, si uno bien disfruta de los olores a Pescado frito y a la fresca brisa del mar en el cinto Norte de Progreso; basta solo con viajar cinco o diez cuadras (dependiendo del Oriente, Centro o Poniente) hacia el Sur para poder oler a basura quemada y huevo podrido. No obstante, no nos debemos olvidar que los extranjeros que son dueños de propiedades de verano no son los únicos ricos de Progreso, ya que también existen historias de triunfo migratorio que se han ganado la vida y su casita junto al mar a través de la industria de la pesca y las ganancias que han generado en toda una vida. Como me lo dijo el director del centro de cultura de Progreso: “Un pescador de Veracruz hace 50 años tenía que vivir en una casita de cartón y pues ahora sus hijos y nietos pueden disfrutar de una casa frente al mar.” Las realidades de Progreso y sus contrastes son fuertes, si. Pero es una ciudad fundada por migraciones obreras que buscaban trabajo y una mejor vida, y que de alguna manera u otra encontraron por lo menos una de las dos.
Servicios de salud para todos!!!!
Los servicios de salud en Yucatán han sido a lo largo de un Siglo de carácter social; por lo tanto cualquiera tiene la oportunidad de acceder a ellos en caso de requerirlo. El nuevo programa de salud Seguro popular se echó a andar en el inicio de la presente administración presidencial. El seguro popular “debe de proveer del servicios médico a lo que menos tienen”, sin embargo; el deber es una palabra relativa, puesto que el deber no implica el tener que hacer. Durante las visitas que realice al puerto tuve la oportunidad de encontrarme con gente que conocía de antemano, platicando con mis dos amigos me comentaron sobre sus experiencias como individuos participes en los servicios de salud sin contar con ningún tipo de seguro médico, ellos habían intentado acceder al seguro popular, pero por su condición de homosexuales, se les fue negado el derecho por la persona encargada de registrarlos, simple y sencillamente sus registros se perdieron en la nada, nadie sabía el lugar en el cual se encontraban dichos documentos. El personal les comentó que debían esperar el siguiente año para poder realizar el trámite, mientras tanto ellos podían accesar a ciertos servicios de salud, pero en la ciudad de Mérida. Lo anterior demuestra que la información presente en internet, radio y televisión es hasta cierto punto falsa, los servicios médicos si se encuentran limitados, no solo porque no todos pueden accesar, si no porque hay un déficit en el personal y en las medicinas de acuerdo a mi información recabada. Desde ésta perspectiva es curioso notar que la modernidad de la fachada del edificio es solamente apariencia. El progreso ha llegado a medias para el pueblo, ya que cuando se trata de problemas médico graves es mejor emigrar, salir del puerto en busca de mejores condiciones de salud.
Progreso: entre la jarana turística y el grafiti comercial-callejero
EL arte es la expresión de un pueblo, que adquiere cuerpo a través de manifestaciones culturales, en donde el pueblo posee una voz propia mediante elementos simbólicos que tiene una referencia de acuerdo al contexto en al cual se desenvuelve el artista (Figueroba-Fernández, 1996: 12-14). El grafiti fue considerado por mucho tiempo como un acto vandálico, sobre todo en Yucatán estuvo ligado a los grupos sociales marginados que cometían hechos delictivos. Hoy en día el grafiti se ha convertido en una moda en la cual participa la comunidad, podemos apreciarlo mejor en los concursos y muestras de grafiti. En este sentido los dibujos del grafiti adquiere importancia porque representa las expresiones de los grupos marginados. En Progreso el grafiti se ha institucionalizado por medio de las escuelas que promueven los concursos y las muestras, no sólo como simples dibujos, sino que se le ha dado el adjetivo de artístico. De este modo me llama mucho la atención que la gran mayoría de las bardas grafiteadas se encuentran en los llamados barrios populares, precisamente por que dichos barrios resultan ser, a mi juicio, espacios de alternancia para promover expresiones no “oficiales”, expresiones de la comunidad en donde se ven plasmados los problemas contemporáneos, quizá traídos por el Progreso, los colores elegidos resultan ser muy llamativos intuyendo que uno de los motivos del color se debe a la persuasión, las nuevas generaciones desean tener voz oficial o no alterna. Me pareció fascinante poder encontrar grafiti comercializado, puesto que demuestra existe una identificación entre los diferentes sectores populares, por el contrario este elementos artístico es retomado para poder vender debido a que el grafiti pasó de ser vandálico a ser una moda, y por consiguiente fue atrapado en los comercios; es decir comercializado.
Durante la pandemia de influenza, el puerto progreseño sufrió un retraso ya que las actividades económicas cesaron; dejando enormes estragos en los sectores populares aumentando la escases de empleos. Por el contrario el gobierno impulsó la economía, siendo el turismo una actividad importante en la región, se invitó al crucero carnaval a llegar de nuevo a costas mexicanas en Progreso, me llama mucho la atención que la llegada de dicho crucero estuvo acompañada hasta de la gobernadora. Es interesante notar como una actividad económica se vuelve importante en una región, no importando la devastación que trae consigo es celebrada con el símbolo del pueblo maya la jarana.
Referencias:
Fiqueroba, Antonio. Fernández, Madrid. María Teresa. 1996. Historia del arte. Madrid, España: Mc Graw Hill.
Vistas hacia el progreso
La costa de puerto Progreso se ha desarrollado al ritmo de una población que ha sufrido los embates de furiosos huracanes, los movimientos migratorios de gente que llega y que se va, y la incompetencia de las autoridades que no han sabido orientar la situación popular del puerto hacia el Progreso. Por el contrario, Progreso cuenta con un pueblo rico en tradiciones, sus creencias populares se transforman con el pasar de los años en visiones de vida alternos a lo oficial. En éste sentido, a lo largo de la presente investigación de campo, hemos tenido diferentes vistas hacia el Progreso; es decir hemos visto a través de diferentes perspectivas los puntos, quizá, más sobresalientes presentando la ubicación geográfica del puerto. En primera instancia dialogamos con la “historia oficial” de un pueblo en el que parecen figurar solamente personajes ilustres. En contraste, el colectivo social ha sido el gran impulsor anónimo de la economía en la región, una economía que ha tomado cuerpo mediante la fortuna de unos cuantos y la pobreza de unos muchos, de unos muchos que han adaptado las formas de sobrevivir permaneciendo al margen del manglar en dónde la naturaleza se funde con el Progreso de las divisiones sociales de la ciudad portuaria, que ofrece grandes “expectativas” a los turistas. Los servicios públicos de carácter social parecen no estar limitados a ninguna persona en especial, sin embargo; la realidad dista mucho de los que se presenta en spots televisivos y programas de ayuda social. Las limitaciones hacia el Progreso, se han trasmutado y han adquirido un espacio propio en las expresiones callejeras del grafiti, el arte callejero que demuestra la voz del colectivo económico, histórico y político. Ofrecemos “vistas al Progreso”, como un tropo que gira con la brisa marina, con los vientos del huracán y con el vendaval del pueblo mismo.
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